"CI KOREA 2020," a shot of hope.
"CI KOREA 2020," a shot of hope.
  • Accepted 2021.02.04 13:55
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Present Future Cosmetics Research Direction

The "2020 CI KOREA CONFERENCE" hosted by The K-Beauty Science and Competition Exhibition was held at KINTEX in Ilsan for three days from July 27-29, 2020. △NEW PARADIGM, SUSTAINABILITY, and CONVERGENCE, three themes that lead global cosmetics industry trends, brought together experts from related fields. Introduce the main contents of each topic.



"Melanocyte movement control mechanism in melanin forming cells"

Hwang Jae-sung, Professor of Genetic Engineering at Kyung Hee University

This is the latest research that was conducted because there was no report on whether melanocyte movement could change the formation of skin pigmentation. The expression of all three proteins (RAB27a, Melanophilin, Myosin Va), which play a major role in melanocytosis movement, was confirmed to be controlled by inhibiting melanocyte movement. It has also been newly identified that PHB Prohibit protein, which exists in existing mitochondria and is known to have various functions in cells, affects melanocyte cohesion and has a unique effect on melanocyte migration. It was published as a cover paper in May 2020 in the international journal ‘Theragnostic’ as a result of research that can explore new ways to develop pigmentation that control skin pigmentation.


“Cosmetics and Microbiome”

Dr. Yeo Hyun-joo of the Cosmax Institute of Technology

Among the studies presented by L'Oreal in 2017, human skin microbiomes are included, and the field of study has changed to studies of the effects of interaction and distribution of skin-wide microbiomes on disease and aging from studies focused on acne, atopic and inflammatory bacteria. In response, Cosmax studied microbiomes that directly affect skin aging, and found that the code name "Strain CX" microbiota disappeared naturally as it got older. In addition, the code name "EPI-7," which was discovered independently, is a new microbiome specialized for young women's skin, which produces a large amount of essential fatty acids and lipids. Through these research results, the skin microbiome has scientifically proven to be an important axis as a cosmetic material by continuously controlling skin condition.


Whitening New Paradigm 'Viphenolic whitening agent'

Noh Ho-sik, a professor of chemical engineering at Suwon University

In the case of artwork, you can see different interpretations of the same object from a different perspective. If this is applied to natural phenomena, new materials can be found. Many existing natural phenolic compounds have been developed as whitening agents. In the case of phenolic compounds, the oxidation process by thirosinase produces quinon compounds indicating cell toxicity and causes melanocyte damage. Rhododenol, which was recalled a few years ago in Kanebo, Japan, is also a good example of phenolic compounds. In the wake of this incident non-phenol whitening agent was designed for next generation, which has whitening effects but does not have phenol hair, and developed ‘BioMelasolv‘(material name). It is assumed that there are some substances that have phenol but are not cytotoxic, and I think these studies are constantly needed.


Emotional Cosmetics and Smells

Park Chan-ik, Professor of Hyang Industry at Daegu Oriental University

Emotional cosmetics are designed to maximize the utility of cosmetics in consideration of consumers' emotions. Consumers are emotionally affected by cosmetics through five senses, and smell (scent), touch (sense), and vision (color, brightness, and saturation) take important parts. In particular, smell stimulates the limbic system with a recognizable sense without direct contact, which affects consumers' emotions and memories. But because the brain plays a role in everything that senses our body, brain science has a lot to do with scents. In the development of cosmetics, we expect to consider consumer sensibility more through continuous olfactory and tactile research, and to move toward consumer-friendly directions such as improving skin moisturization and optimizing various effects by quantifying the physical chemistry characteristics of various products.



Current State of Development in Heritage Ingredients

Park Joon-sung, professor of industrial chemistry at Chungbuk National University

Based on the cosmetics ingredient dictionary, the company is exploring new materials, saying that materials are still scarce in the era of 20,000 cosmetics ingredients. Consumers using cosmetics also have increased their knowledge and demand for ingredients through various channels, making it important to study the sustainability of how to develop certain materials rather than simply developing them. In the end, despite the importance of the functional value of cosmetics, it has to be limited, so materials must be developed from an emotional value and Heritage perspective. If you look at the case of Heritage Development by Global Corporation, there are "Okid" by Gelang and "Rose" by Dior. Independent story development is needed, such as where the material originates, what social responsibility it has, and what new effects it has never known before.


Bioplastics and cosmetics

Yoo Young-sun, professor of biotechnology at Catholic University of Korea

Human activity changed by Corona 19 caused an unintended positive change on Earth, but as time spent at home increased, consumption of delivery food and other foods increased, and disposable garbage was surging. Although bio-plastics have been suggested as an optimal solution for solving plastic problems, there are characteristics that need to be considered when developing policies, institutions and products in each country. Above all, it is necessary to recognize the importance of the environment and the need for eco-friendly products, so that all academics, industries, governments, local governments, and consumers can participate. Bio-plastics, which used to be a market centered on disposable products, are currently continuously spreading in applications, and related research and industrialization for sustainable development are expected to draw attention in the future.


'DMZ and Cosmetics'

Lim Byeong-yeon, secretary general of the Dermatological Materials Leading Technology Development Group

The beginning and end of the cosmetics industry is in policy (law and institution). In this respect, sustainability, along with its environmental implications, should be considered together in the context of ethical responsibility. The Korean cosmetics industry is in trouble due to tightened regulations such as the entry into force of the Nagoya Protocol and the spread of animal testing bans, reduced exports and China's pursuit. As a way to overcome this, it is necessary to seek a joint development strategy between South and North Korea by utilizing the unique resources of the DMZ. Not only is the non-military and non-political domain accessible without any burden, but it also contributes to the improvement and cooperation of inter-Korean relations, so social responsibility can be fulfilled. It is expected that the North Korean market, which is positive about South Korean cosmetics, will be dominated by small investment costs, and will bring localization of cosmetics materials and securing competitiveness.


Clean Beauty Trends and Prospects

Jin Jung-im, CEO of Beauty Streams Korea

The Clean Beauty range is not simply considered a safe ingredient for the human body, but an important axis for preserving sustainability. It includes the life cycle of the product as a whole, and it is important how it affects the environment of the earth and society as a whole. As many consumers become conscious buyers by analyzing the ingredients in depth, they expect "clean" in all processes such as sourcing raw materials, product production, packaging, and retail. Formulation should also show green chemistry practice and transparency. Under these conditions, Corona19 will increase the demand for materials derived from Oriental medicine for 'immune power' and increase the reliability of more scientifically proven products. As various factors are connected, there is no global standard that only defines clean beauty, but this is why the ethical management of companies is expected to be strengthened.



"Active Oxygen and Skin Aging"

Park Soo-nam, CEO of COSNP
The importance of antioxidants (tocopherols) should be considered. Since DNA is sensitive to free radicals, it is important how you control free radicals in your body. Antioxidant defenses for skin protection from free radicals include Catalase, Vitamin E, C, Glutachionperoxidase, Flavonoids, etc. Non-enzyme antioxidants include vitamins E, C, carotenoids, flavonoids, Ubiquinol, glutathion, and alpha-repoic acid. There is a lot of flavonoids in the natural extract, and Ubiquinol plays a role in regenerating tocopherols. It is important to develop antioxidant materials by referring to these points.


Light and Skin Science

Shin Dong-wook, professor of bio-convergence science at Konkuk University

A survey of global company L'Oreal shows that it has been studying visible light for seven to eight years. Visible light (400 to 720 nm) goes deep into subcutaneous hyperpodermis, and the skin is known to act differently on the various wavelengths of visible light. The 590 nm wavelength amber light confirmed the reduction of neutral fat through a magnetic mechanism. Red light, on the other hand, has identified a mechanism to protect the skin by improving the physical interaction of GADD45A and APE1. However, it is important to make sure that the research has been conducted properly when choosing related beauty devices because the cells die from prolonged exposure to red light that is effective for skin, such as improving skin injury.


"New source of active ingredient transfer in the skin, 'Toxa molar structure'"
Bae Won-gyu, professor of electrical engineering at Soongsil University

Our skin forms an effective layer of protection to protect ourselves from various elements outside. Therefore, the syringe has been the only way to transfer polymer materials through the skin into the human body for a long time. As for ways to overcome shortcomings such as pain and fear of syringes, micronies have been studied for a long time, and there are many kinds of micronies depending on manufacturing and delivery methods, which have also been difficult to use due to technical limitations or limitations in commercialization process. To solve this problem, the venomous molar structure uses the capillary force of the venomous molar to deliver drugs into the skin within seconds. It spreads easily to the skin because there are no other additives, and the wound recovers faster than the syringe. It is also an advantage that no additional approval procedures are required. In other words, the venomous molar structure is expected to replace intravenous injections that can give the epidermis effective ingredients such as drugs or Botox.


New Production Base for Functional Materials 'Intelligent Plant Factory'

Dr. Noh Joo-won of KIST Smart Farm Convergence Research Center

Natural materials need to be secured with increasing public interest in health, beauty and the environment. Especially in Korea, natural plants are collected once a year in four seasons, so they are cultivated or collected in the wild. This can result in uneven quality, and consequently can be a hindrance to the industrialization of high value-added dietary and medicinal cosmetics using natural products. In this regard, artificial optical plant factories that can reliably secure the production volume and active ingredients of effective plants are drawing attention as high-functional raw material production platforms. Some of the successful studies in these plant factories include growing functional kale with maximum anti-cancer content, and growing a genuine berry, which is known to contain more saponin than a genuine root. Currently, the company has moved from a platform that only acquired natural materials through the production of land (first-generation platform) to an artificial optical plant factory, which is the second-generation, and is accumulating big data to develop an AI plant factory (third-generation).

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