“It's a peptide technology that made world- Class products”
“It's a peptide technology that made world- Class products”
  • By The K Beauty Science
  • Accepted 2021.06.14 03:40
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Lee Hyun-sook, head of the Korea Kolmar Institute of Technology's Skin Care Research Institute
Lee Hyun-sook, head of the Korea Kolma Institute of Technology's skin care research team, developed a peptide design technology specializing in combination by skin cell receptor and won the 2020 World's Best Product Merit Award. Kolmar.
Lee Hyun-sook, head of the Korea Kolma Institute of Technology's skin care research team, developed a peptide design technology specializing in combination by skin cell receptor and won the 2020 World's Best Product Merit Award. Kolmar.

The most important thing in cosmetics is how much ingredients are transferred into the skin. In particular, in the case of "valid ingredients," if they are not properly transferred to the skin, there can be mishaps that do not show any effect even though expensive raw materials are used. It is also important to ensure that the "valid ingredient" works in the right place. Last year, Kolmar Korea received a certification from the state for its products applied skin transfer technology.

It acquired NEPNew Excellent Product, a certification from the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy, and Lee Hyun-sook, the team leader of the skin care institute who developed the technology, won the World's Best Products Merit Award. The technology, which gained ideas from drug delivery systems used in medicines, helps cosmetics find damaged cells in the skin and be absorbed quickly and accurately. I heard the research process through email from her.

Congratulations on winning the World's Best Product Merit Award. This time, What is the suspicious peptide design technique?

It is a differentiated delivery technology that can identify key functions of each skin cell and design peptides with high selective binding power that can directly act on them to deliver effective materials that suit skin concerns more efficiently. This is a new cosmetic active ingredient delivery technology that applies 'targeted drug delivery technology' applied to pharmaceuticals. It goes beyond simple compounding and stabilization of effective ingredients, and It is delicate convergence technology designed to allow each effective ingredient to be delivered to the skin more effectively to improve efficiency and function.

There are three peptide sequences used. Was there a selection criteria?

The cells that are thought to be important in the skin were randomly designated first. A total of three types were determined: keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts, and the representative receptors of the cells were selected and process to find peptides with excellent binding force for each receptor was conducted. The final three types were made by checking the binding force of each skin cell among the candidates through large-scale sequencing.

How did you proceed with the stability test of the product stability test?

Mixing a large amount of natural products and efficacy materials, changing physical properties, discoloration, changing odors and in the case of emulsion formulation, particle analysis were held weekly under harsh conditions (by temperature). In addition, to reduce the quality difference between laboratory and field manufacturing semi-finished products, sufficient communication and demonstration procedures were carried out between the development laboratory, weighting technology team, manufacturing technology team, and quality control team.

How did you identify as the multilayered structure of the capsule?

Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used.

What is the product with capsule technology? What type of product was most effective?

All three are applied to 6 items of 'Atomy Absoulte Selective Skin Care' set. Whitening capsules were applied to toner, lifting capsules to two items of lotion and nutritional cream, and anti-aging capsules to three items of ampoule, serum, and eye cream. Each capsule was applied considering the order of using skincare products and its formulation characteristics.

In terms of effectiveness, it will be difficult to select a specific product due to differences in skeletal prescriptions and various skin types other than the efficacy content. However, empirically, our skin is closer to oil than water, so I believe that emulsifying technology, which can form a structure similar to skin lipids, will be relatively effective in stabilizing and delivering effective ingredients. This technology has increased skin transfer power of available technology based formulations such as ampoules and toners.

"We actively communicated

with other industrial workers

to develop technologies that are

one step more advanced in the field of cosmetics. “


Based on the patent content, I think you collaborated with experts in various fields.

To develop premium anti-aging cosmetics, screening of various natural and bio-based effective materials was required. In order to find differentiated materials, I seemed to have communicated to such an extent that it is bothersome to domestic and foreign cosmetic raw materials companies. Internally, regular and individual meetings were held with the skin research team and the efficacy development team at least once a week to review the justification, efficacy effectiveness, and stability of the material.

I also can recall actively communicating with workers in the field to get ideas from other industries, Food and Pharmaceutical Research Institute, to develop advanced technologies in the cosmetics field.

Due to the nature of the skin transmission study, it must have been difficult to try it directly on human bodies.

Through the cell test, the binding force of each representative cell from skins was tested. However, it was difficult to try it immediately on humans, so the cell-specific compatibility test was conducted through the human efficacy test of the clinical company.

Is there any follow-up research related to this technology?

This technology has developed whitening, lifting, and anti-aging as key functions. It is a platform technology that improves skin transmission by selecting effective materials suitable for each skin cell, and planning to implement beauty effects in various skin besides the three functions previously applied. We are looking for effective materials that can be applied here, and we are planning to expand and develop not only skin care but also makeup items.

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