Jeong Se-kyoo, CTO of Incospharm

 

Q. Please introduce Incospharm.

Incospharm Corp. is dedicated to research and develop new bioactive cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients. From the Aquatide™, the first skin autophagy stimulating ingredient which won the gold medal of innovation zone in in-cosmetics Asia 2016, Incospharm has been introducing innovative cosmetic ingredients for UV protection, skin brightening, sebum suppression, scalp care, and sensitive skin care.

Q. What are the recent cosmetic material trends after COVID-19?

As an extension to the sustainability, clean beauty and conscious beauty receive a lot of attention from both consumers and manufacturers. Neuro-cosmetic ingredient, which having noticeable effects of emotional stress or psychological status, are also actively explored by many groups.

Q. Please explain about new product of Incospharm.

This year, Incospharm introduces Bio-PEC(Bio conversion Phyto-EndoCannabinoid) ingredients as alternatives to cannabidiol(CBD). Bio-PECs are developed from the natural plant oils through an enzyme-catalyzed bio-process and do not have any regulatory issues associated with Cannabidiol, while having same activities on skin. The newly identified biological activity of Aquatide™ on skin barrier function and growth factors stimulating effects of Hybrid Peptide BIO will be also disclosed.

Q. Why did you develop Bio-PEC?

While the recent emergence of cannabidiol (CBD) as an eco-friendly ingredient with many benefits on skin, strict regulatory status hampers its widespread uses in many countries. In order to overcome the regulatory issues, we focused on the endocannabinoid compounds, which are made within skin cells and have same mode of action to that of cannabidiol.

Q. What’s the difference between Bio-PEC and conventional ingredient?

Bio-PECs(Bio conversion Phyto-EndoCannabinoids) are natural plant oil-derived cosmetic ingredients and act on skin cells in a same way to that of endocannabinoid. Bio-PECs are produced through an eco-friendly and sustainable manufacturing process and do not have any regulatory drawbacks for cosmetic application.

Q. What effect does Bio-PEC have?

Bio-PECs have the same biological activities to those of cannabidiol, including skin calming and strengthening skin’s natural anti-oxidant capacity. From the series of in vitro tests, it was observed that Bio-PECs have strong soothing effects against UV irradiation and oxidative stresses. From the ex vivo test with human skin explant models, significant calming and soothing activity of Bio-PECs was observed against the repeated mechanical insults.

Q. What about the clinical trial results of Bio-PEC?

In order to evaluate the clinical efficacies of Bio-PECs, Bio-PEC sunflower was tested on healthy volunteers with acne-prone skin. After 2 and 4 weeks of usage, significant reduction of skin surface lipids and improvement of skin barrier function were observed. In addition to the number of comedones in facial area and skin redness level, ratio of interleukin-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1RA) to interleukin-1a (IL-1a), as a marker of sensitive skin severity, was also decreased by Bio-PEC sunflower. These results supports that Bio-PECs, as alternative to cannabidiol or other cannabis-originated ingredients, have same clinical efficacies to cannabidiol.

Q. Which product should we use Bio-PEC for?

Made from the natural plant oils, Bio-PECs have a great compatibility to conventional oil ingredients, including its original oil as well, and can be used in most emulsion products for skin soothing, skin barrier function, and sebum regulation.

Q. What kind of new materials Incospharm is planning to develop?

Incospharm is currently working on develop new Bio-ceramide ingredients from the natural plant oils, manufactured through a sustainable and eco-friendly process. As ceramide ingredients, Bio-ceramides can help to strengthen the skin barrier function. In addition to having the crucial structural features of reconstituting the lamellar structure in emulsions, Bio-ceramide also have higher compatibility to emulsion formulations and better aesthetic sensory feels than the conventional ceramide ingredients.

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