Next-Generation K-Beauty Brands
Beginning in the early 2000s, the rise of the Hallyu (Korean Wave) served as a catalyst for Korean cosmetics, giving rise to an array of prominent brands and positioning Korea as an Asian cosmetic titan. These prominent brands, which consistently rank third or fourth among the world's export powerhouses, have increased their market capitalization primarily in foreign markets such as China, thus solidifying their position as pillars of the South Korean cosmetics industry.
Given this context, an increasing number of domestic cosmetics enterprises are making bold strides, introducing innovative products to establish themselves as new brands of Hallyu cosmetics. The South Korean market which is in fierce competition remains a globally competitive landscape, with over 20,000 cosmetic firms launching hundreds, even thousands of products daily.
The influence of Korean cosmetics, temporarily hindered by the ramifications of COVID-19, is now experiencing a resurgence. From the previous September onwards, we have observed an uptick in the influx of tourists to Korea, and prominent cosmetics hubs such as Myeongdong, Gangnam, and Hongdae are gradually regaining their former vitality. As the influx of Chinese tourists increases from April onward, expectations for the emergence of innovative star brands are on the rise. We have assembled a selection of next-generation Hallyu cosmetics brands that, despite their established recognition and market value within Korea, remain relatively unknown in international markets.
Emerging Players in the Clean Beauty Wave
Despite the global market upheaval caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, a range of standout brands have managed to capture attention. From makeup labels such as Rom&nd, Hince, and Laka to trendsetters like VT and Kahi, as well as skincare lines like Abib, Round Lab, Cosrx, Mixsoon, and Milk Touch, these emerging brands are poised to challenge the supremacy of first-generation Hallyu titans like Leaders and Mediheal. Notably, the rise of the clean beauty trend in both domestic and overseas markets has prompted a succession of clean beauty brands – promoting organic, eco-friendly, and vegan values – to emerge and captivate the industry's attention.
One notable brand is 'Sioris', which gained attention domestically in 2021 following an investment from JYP Entertainment. Park Jin-young, the founder of JYP Entertainment, commended the brand's performance, leading to the increased conversation around Sioris. The brand was conceptualized by Han Sung-wook, the CEO of Zenkosmetikos. Conceived as an organic beauty brand, Sioris was launched in October 2017. Han, who has spent over a decade in the field of natural and organic beauty, decided to establish an organic brand focusing on locally sourced seasonal ingredients.
Sioris incorporates organic ingredients grown on Korean soil as its primary components. It directly purchases ingredients like Gwangyang plums in May, Mungyeong omija in September, and Goheung yuzu in December from local farmers. Sioris diligently harvests these ingredients at their peak nutrient levels throughout the year to maximize their nutritional value.
Beyond its use of organic ingredients, Sioris sets itself apart by obtaining international organic certifications that encompass environmental sustainability and animal testing. This commitment ensures the production of trustworthy products that resonate with global consumers. Sioris employs eco-friendly packaging, including sugarcane trays, soy ink printing, moisture-resistant adhesive labels, and transparent glass containers. While its products are currently available through retailers such as Olive Young and Chicor in South Korea, Sioris is also reinvigorating its efforts to expand into overseas markets that were temporarily impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic.
Among their standout offerings are two products: 'Time is Running Out Mist' featuring 36.1% Gwangyang plum water harvested in May 2021, and 'Time is Running Out Mist' with 36.1% Goheung yuzu extract harvested in December 2021. Both products exemplify Sioris' adherence to the principle of utilizing seasonal raw materials.
A recent addition to its lineup is the highly acclaimed 'Cleanse Me Softly, Milk Cleanser Citrus'. Formulated with 62.6% Goheung organic yuzu water harvested in December 2022, this cleanser adheres to the principle of utilizing seasonal ingredients. The product, presented in a citrus version, acts as a gentle and nourishing daily cleansing lotion that effectively removes makeup and impurities. It has been officially certified as a vegan product by the Vegan Society of the United Kingdom. Furthermore, it is enriched with the invigorating aroma of blended yuzu oil and fragrant geranium oil, derived from a range of natural essential oils in the citrus family.
Among the trending brands is 'Rataplan', launched in December 2020 by the advertising agency BIG BAND & CO., with the distinctive claim of being “the most Korean clean beauty”.
The flagship product of 'Rataplan' is the Minari Soothing Line, consisting of seven products that harness the power of Minari, a plant found in Suncheonman Bay. Since October 2022, it has received positive responses after securing a spot in major domestic distribution channels such as Olive Young, The Hyundai Seoul, and Kakao Gift. Recently, 'Rataplan' expanded its product range with the introduction of 'Dahong', a lifestyle care line that embraces Korean design elements and includes body care products and other household items.
Dahong has caught the attention of the Millennials and Gen Z through various collaborations that infuse Korean beauty into items such as bags and towels. The standout product, 'Dahong Hand & Body Wash', boasts a signature scent reminiscent of the sea-kissed Jeju tangerines, invigorating grapefruits, and tranquil pine trees. This refreshing formulation combines oriental essential oils like honeysuckle and camellia seeds with plant-based ingredients like pine leaf, ensuring the skin remains moisturized and supple even after cleansing. Additionally, the packaging design draws inspiration from the vibrant colors of traditional Hanbok skirts. 'Dahong' proudly holds vegan certification from the Korea Agency of Vegan Certification and Services and has successfully passed non-irritation tests, guaranteeing its safety and reliability.
In addition, 'Dr. Orga' was launched in 2020 by Lee Jong-hyun, a seasoned global professional with over 20 years of experience in the cosmetics distribution industry in South Korea. Under the guiding principle that 'True doctors are nature', 'Dr. Orga' embarked on a significant transformation last year, renewing its entire product line. Lee, who has been associated with environmentally friendly and organic import brands since the 2000s, established the website under the name 'Dr. Orga' while serving as the exclusive distributor in Korea.
At its inception, 'Dr. Orga' prioritized incorporating the diverse characteristics inherent in nature by utilizing natural and organic ingredients. The five product lines, including Kin Nature, 100, Taecho, Angelino Baby, and Smilelogy series, garnered positive feedback upon their release and have experienced continuous growth fueled by word-of-mouth endorsements since then.
Dr. Orga places a strong emphasis on developing products that can be used without hesitation by individuals with sensitive and delicate skin, including children and the entire family. Moreover, the brand has embraced sustainability by employing PCR 100% recycling containers.
The notable offerings from Dr. Orga include the 'Premium Tone-Up Sun Protection Cream', a multifunctional sunscreen that provides whitening, wrinkle improvement, and UV protection, as well as the highly acclaimed 'Hohoba & Tea Tree Natural Shampoo', which has secured the top spot in the shampoo category for three consecutive years according to the beauty-focused brand Hwahae. Another representative product is the 'Argan & Sunflower Natural Hair Pack', a vegan solution specially formulated for severely damaged hair. These products have been lauded by a wide range of social media platforms specializing in cosmetics, along with industry experts and influential personalities. Currently, sunscreen and shampoo are available on the company’s online mall as well as Olive Young's comprehensive retail network, both in-store and online.
An Insight into Cosmetic Brands
Commanding Attention Through Pioneering Ingredients and Technological Prowess
Certain brands are capturing the limelight with their commitment to unique ingredients and exceptional technical capabilities. These cosmetic brands, brought to life by raw material companies, are revolutionizing the industry with their robust entry into the cosmetics sphere, based on their scientifically validated proprietary ingredients and technologies. Garnering recognition within the domestic market, these brands are now charting their course toward global expansion.
Nexgen Bio, previously known as Nexgen Biotechnologies, deserves mention for its remarkable strides. The company first gained attention in 2011 with the introduction of a groundbreaking concept— 'preservative-free sterilized cosmetics'. Consistently developing more than five novel recombinant proteins annually, Nexgen Bio applies its inventions to a variety of sectors, including the development of high-performance skincare products.
Nexgen Bio crossed a significant milestone in 2008, becoming a renowned supplier of cosmetics raw materials when it started providing EGF ingredients to major domestic corporations. The company persevered in its research and development efforts and unveiled a new skincare product formulated with 'Spider Toxin Protein', aimed at improving skin wrinkles and maintaining elasticity. The successful registration and mass production of this innovative cosmetic raw material marked the inception of Nexgen Bio's own branded venture.
Further demonstrating its creative prowess, Nexgen Bio developed a heat-resistant hybrid protein, combining human growth hormone with artificial spider silk proteins.
Recently, Nexgen Bio has been making waves with the introduction of a unique cosmetic ingredient known as Botulenin, a hybrid of Botulinum toxin protein and Human Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF). The company unveiled the 'Botulenin Gigastick', a brand product utilizing this new material, and expanded the line to creams and serums. The 'Botulenin Gigastick', colloquially referred to as the 'wrinkle eraser', stands out for its portability and its precise, mess-free application. Botulenin, the primary ingredient, holds patents in the United States, Europe, and Japan, and is celebrated for its superior anti-aging properties compared to the commonly recognized EGF.
Moreover, the ESV (Aratox) ingredient (INCI name: sh-Oligopeptide-1 Alanyl sr-Spider Oligopeptide-1), used in conjunction with Botulenin (INCI name: sr-Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1 sh-Oligopeptide-1), is a hybrid of artificial spider toxin protein and EGF. This revolutionary ingredient is patented not only domestically but also in prominent international markets including Korea, the United States, Japan, and Europe.
Cellicon Lab, a frontrunner in peptide development, has been the focus of recent industry attention due to its innovative cosmetics formulation that utilizes patented 'DermiShuttle' technology, a pioneering dermis delivery system. The DermiShuttle, Cellicon Lab's unique brainchild, has intrigued the cosmetics industry by presenting novel results that diverge from traditional dermal absorption research, including a dermis arrival time within a mere 3-hour window.
■ Next-Generation K-Beauty Brands
The DermiShuttle technology, originally developed by Cellicon Lab, has been ingeniously applied to Dimelaxyl, a pre-existing skin-whitening compound, to develop 'DST-DXTM', a groundbreaking raw material. This impressive innovation clinched a Bronze award in the Active Ingredient Category at the esteemed 'In-cosmetics Asia 2022', held in Bangkok, Thailand, from November 1 to 3 of the previous year.
DST-DXTM, a revolutionary skin-whitening compound for cosmetic use, has demonstrated its superior efficacy and safety through rigorous human application testing. Unlike traditional skin-whitening ingredients that target only a fraction of the melanin production process, DST-DXTM introduces a novel approach to skin whitening. It simultaneously interferes with α-MSH (α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone), a critical player in melanin synthesis, and inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin production pathway.
Moreover, DST-DXTM holds the potential to significantly enhance the appearance of freckles, blemishes, and dark skin without any deleterious side effects. Human application trials have further validated its efficacy in alleviating the symptoms of facial flushing, a common concern for menopausal women.
Cellicon Lab's cosmetic brand 'Jeu’Demeure', which developed and introduced products featuring this breakthrough ingredient, such as the DermiShuttle Lifting Kit, has already cultivated a fervent following and is earning a reputation overseas.
SMHAEL, which in 2021 pioneered the integration of the natural material RPS.3 into an ampoule, built upon the patented invention of Professor Kim Jun. Last year, the company ingeniously overhauled its signature offering, and this year, it has embarked on an ambitious business trajectory.
RPS.3, a patented substance, is notable for its complete non-toxicity and can be found in microorganisms or within the human body. Known for its lipophilic trait (resistant to blending with water), like skin, it can penetrate the skin without the need for specific delivery tools.
SMHAEL skillfully utilized the properties of this substance to create the 'HA:L RPS.3 Ampoule.' This essential ampoule excels in hydrating and soothing the skin, making it an ideal candidate for daily skincare. Their flagship product, 'HA:L RPS.3 Signature Base Ampoule,' is renowned for its invigorating citrus aroma and providing skin with deep moisturization.
Edited by Lee So-yeon (Beauty Freelancer)