Presentation on the advanced dermatological materials technology development project
The National Center for Cosmetics R&D (NCR) under-taking the project: Development of dermatological technology for innovative growth under the supervision of the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare had a performance review presentation at KINTEX Exhibition Center 1 located in Ilsan, Korea on April 19, 2023. In partnership with the 2023 CI Korea, NCR presented key performance in the field of sustainable, eco-friendly Korean materials development, part of the advanced dermatological materials technology development project (project leader: Hwang Jaeseong). This project took course over three years, starting from 2020 to 2022. In particular, the development of sustainable, eco-friendly Korean materials focuses on domestic production of general-purpose / basic materials, which still depend heavily on imports, and the development of natural ingredients grown in Korea against the Nagoya Protocol. The summary of this presentation is given below. _ Editor's Note
■ LCS Biotech
The new, next-generation eco-friendly ceramide EcoCeramide ENP™
Over the last 5~6 years, the number of cosmetic products using ceramide rapidly increased, consisting of 23.1% of the total Beauty & Personal Care products launched in 2021(Mintel). With growing attention to applying various ceramides in cosmetic products, a new class of ceramides, EcoCeramide ENPTM from LCS Biotech, has recently been launched. EcoCeramide ENPTM is a phytosphingosine-based 1-O-Acylceramide (Fig.1). Unlike other current ceramides in the market, such as ceramide NP, NS, NG, and AP that play as the building block for the lipid multilamellar matrix in the human skin barrier, EcoCeramide ENPTM has a unique function despite its low content in the human skin barrier. Various physicochemical characterizations and in vivo, human efficacy studies have revealed that EcoCeramide ENPTM has a strong boosting effect on improving skin barrier parameters, for example, hydration and retention of hydration, cohesion, and basal TEWL of HP-EcoCeramide LCSTM, a specialized ceramide NP (Fig. 2). A human study demonstrated that HP-EcoCeramide LCSTM synergistically enhances skin barrier function in combination with ceramide NP. In conclusion, formulations of EcoCeramide ENPTM in combination with HP-Ecoceramide LCSTM at a certain optimum ratio will be the new normal for developing an Ideal moisturizer. The poster on the EcoCeramide ENPTM presented to the IFSCC, 2022(London) was selected Top 10 poster, and the related article was published in IFSCC Magazine 2022. In addition, EcoCeramide ENPTM was also awarded a Fountain Award in the skin barrier section in the last PCHI, Shangai.
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Cellapy Bio
Enzyme-based Synthesis of Functional Oils for Cosmetics
Recently, eco-friendliness and social responsibility are hot topics for sustainable growth in all industries. The cosmetics field is not exceptional to this trend, and eco-friendly cosmetics and clean beauty are important factors for marketing. However, the raw materials used in the cosmetics industry are mostly chemical products from global chemical companies. For the long-term sustainable growth of cosmetic industry, it is absolutely required to internalize the raw materials produced by eco-friendly process. Through a Korean R&D project supported by the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare, our company developed an enzymatic conversion technology for several functional oils for "all Bio-based" cosmetics. The enzymatic process generally performed at the atmospheric temperature and pressure; it consumes less energy compared to the chemical synthetic process. Moreover, owing to the high specificity and reactivity of enzyme, there is no by-products which are often problematic in chemical processes. The enzymatic process is known to be more expensive than the chemical process, but the cost problem has been solved by using a hyper-secreting method (Bae et al., 2015) in a GRAS yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae and enzyme immobilization for the repetitive use. In addition, we have succeeded in large-scale production using an efficient bioreactor. We have launched product lines of 30 different enzymatic emollient ester oils (Bio-emollients) and 10 different enzymatic ceramide complexes (Bio-Ceramides). All products are enzymatic synthesized from natural vegetable natural oils. Order-based products can also be manufactured using special oils desired by customers. Generally, oil substances added to cosmetics have been mostly used to improve the solubility and diffusion of lipid-soluble components. But our products showed an efficient moisturizing, whitening, suppressing sebum, and promoting hair growth, so it will be useful to develop new functional cosmetics. In addition to these, a new product, "Bio-LSM" (Lipid Signaling Molecule) was also developed using our enzymatic conversion technology. LSM is a lipid messenger found in the human body. An example of a lipid-signaling system is the Endo-Cannabinoid System (ECS). It regulates the nervous and immune system and plays an important role in various biological processes, such as sleep, mood, appetite, memory, and pain. Up to date, Two LSMs, AEA (Arachidonoyl ethanolamide) and 2-AG (2-Arachidonoylglycerol) were found in human body, and deficiency of these substances causes the imbalance of ECS and resulted in various diseases. Accordingly, proper balance of LSM is very important to maintain biological homeostasis. Unbalanced LSM of the skin can also cause various skin diseases such as itching, acne, atopy, allergies, and psoriasis. The Bio-LSM developed in our company from natural plant oils, confirmed to bind to the ECS receptors, and showed a strong anti-inflammatory effect and skin moisturizing and soothing effects. The enzymatic products introduced in this review, can replace the existing oleochemicals for cosmetics and open a new market for 'all-bio-based eco-friendly cosmetics' in line with current market trends.
